Day 1: The Drive
We began the long 9 hour drive all the way to Onseepkans, the town at the border between South Africa and Namibia. We took many small stops along the way to the Orange River, mostly bathroom and refueling stops.
The Northern Cape looked very dry and arid, with only small bushes and tiny groups of Quiver trees scattered across the landscape. It was very flat and orange, with the mountains not being very tall.
Once we got to the town of Springbok (which was about 2 hours away from the border) we had our lunch break. Springbok was a decent sized town, having many well-known stores and franchises there like Debonairs, Steers, even Ackermans. However, there was very little to do there as well as pretty much every town in the Northern Cape.
From there we drove to Pofadder, the last town before we would get to Onseepkans. It was not much smaller than Springbok and had nothing special about it. To get to Onseepkans we would have to drive on a dirt road, a very long one.
The dirt road was not in bad shape and was actually quite smooth, compared to some other ones I have been on. There were a few dodgy sections but the Mazda dealt with them without issue.
After a long dirt road drive we got to Onseepkans. We would be camping at a place called Red Rock which was in Onseepkans. When we arrived, Cyrus the camp manager opened the gate and greeted us, along with the welcome committee, which consisted of the 3 dogs in the camp. They were very excited to meet us.
The Camp was very beautiful, having lush green grass, a view of the Mighty Orange River, and some trees dotted around the camp.
We were having chicken burgers for supper, I decided to have 2 burgers and they were very delicious. We also let Cyrus have some chicken as there was quite a lot. After a filling supper, Uncle Ozzy made us a very nice pot of tea, and we had some rusks with it. Uncle Hamza also gave some of these chocolate chips, they were in the shape of pringle chips and I have never seen them before. They were very nice.
The view of the Orange river was unlike anything I have ever seen, and until that point it was the most beautiful thing I have ever seen in my life. The river was a light blue due to the sky reflecting its blue onto it, with mountains across the river, trees on the banks, and the sun soon setting. It was really an amazing sight and I am very grateful to have seen it with my own eyes.
Day 2: The Launch
Breakfast was beef burgers, so we got the fire going and waited for the coals to get hot. We had quite a bit of time to get ready as our guides said we must meet them at 10:00, and they were 5 minutes away from the campsite. My dad made the burgers and they were absolutely amazing, we also gave one to Cyrus as we had some extra. Once we were done eating Uncle Ozzy made tea for us then we packed all our things and loaded them in the cars.
We greeted Cyrus as he opened the gate and we were off. The Orange River was just a 2 minute drive away. We drove past small farms and houses that looked really old in a bad way, the road was also a dirt road.
Once we met up with the guides they told us that each person would get a dry bag (a large plastic waterproof bag) and a barrel, which we would use for all of our stuff; Clothing, tents, sleeping bags, everything. We also all got tape and a marker to label each bag. Everyone also got a life jacket and helmet which the guides made sure were tight.
After everyone packed all of their things they loaded the stuff in a trailer and we all got into one of the 2 cars that would take us to the launch area of the Orange river.
The drive would be around 2 hours long. Our driver’s name was Israel and he wouldn’t be joining us on the Orange river. He told us about the Northern Cape and the people who live there. The Northern Cape is very rich in natural resources, like climate for growing grapes and dates, lots of sun for solar farms, and lots and lots of minerals. Diamonds and Zinc are the main things mined there, but there is also quite a lot of quartz.
He says the solar farms earn billions of rands, and must give back to the community via a trust. There are 5 trusts that operate in his community, the town of Onseepkans. The community members must decide in a trust meeting what to use the money for.
Date farms also do very well in the Northern Cape, some farms even export to Dubai. He says one small date palm costs around R8000, and some farms have hundreds.
After the long, but very interesting drive, we reached the launch area. When we got out of the cars they gave everyone their life jackets and helmets back, and said that we were going to have lunch soon. We decided while they were preparing lunch we would go check out the date farm nearby and take some pictures. It was very beautiful.
It wasn’t long until they called us and said lunch was ready. It was polony sandwiches, I had two sandwiches and it was very nice. Our chef’s name was Sipho. After eating, the lead guide, Jacob, informed us that we would get 2 big boats, with 4 of us in each boat plus 1 guide. The two guides were David and Thabo.
All of our gear would be in the boat, and once David secured everything with ropes he told us how to hold the paddle and some basic instructions he would give us while paddling.
When we got onto the Orange river we had to paddle all the way across to get closer to the Namibian side. (we were paddling with the current). The water was flowing very fast so we didn’t have to paddle much. However we did get to swim. It was very fun floating in the water and being pulled with the current. After a while David said we must get in the boat again and paddle.
Soon after we got to the rapids, and they were absolutely epic, they weren’t very big rapids but they were a nice demo of what was to come.
We saw that some of the guides ahead were slowing down. This was our campsite. We parked the boat on a sandy bank and pulled it up away from the water. Then David undid the ropes and we carried all our drums and bags to the campsite.
We cleared a spot for our tents and then began setting them up, we were all close to each other. While we were doing this the guides were starting a fire for the braai later that night,
Supper was sausage, T-bone steaks, and potato, all cooked on the fire. I had never eaten steak cooked in a braai, so I was very excited. I took some steak, sausage and potato and dug in…it was SO GOOD. Cooked perfectly. I had to get another steak, but by the time I went there was only a steak left and no potato, no matter since the steak was exquisite.
We told some stories around the campfire, then someone saw a scorpion, it was massive, it had a huge stinger and tiny claws. Which meant it was super dangerous and venomous.
Day 3: The Sunset
On the morning of day 3 on the Orange river, uncle Ozzy suggested we go hike up the nearby mountain. Sipho and the others gave us the go ahead, saying breakfast would be ready shortly after we got back from our walk. As we were strolling to the base of the mountain, we saw a troop of baboons running not too far from us. Thankfully they didn’t seem to notice our presence so we continued with the walk.
The mountain was rough and very rocky. Each step cracking the rocks we stepped on as they were not very strong. We had to go slow as they were also quite loose.
The view from the top was stunning, the river flowing strongly, the sun just waking up and shedding its golden rays on the river.
We took some photos then we decided to slowly make our way back down.
As we were making our way back to the camp, we saw a fresh baboon print close by. We didn’t see the baboon but it was interesting to see.
Breakfast was ready when we got back, it was scrambled eggs and chicken viennas. I liked the meal, it was nice and simple.
After a lovely breakfast we all started taking our tents down and packing up. It was almost time to leave. Once the guides packed all the stuff on the boats we headed onto the Orange river.
The river was much faster than yesterday and we didn’t have to paddle much. However the rapids were far more intense. Much longer and bigger. David said we did a grade 3 rapid. It was absolutely epic paddling through the strong current and having the water crash over you as your boat almost dives into it, but our raft was very stable so there was no concern of capsizing.
Sadly we were unable to swim as the river flowed too fast. Once we arrived at our new campsite, we had to pull our boat up a sloped river bank. There were alot more bushes around and also some trees to hang our things to dry. When we finished unpacking our things we saw a gazebo pop up. The guides set it up very quickly and moved some boats under it for us to sit!
Lunch this time was pasta, it had some veggies, tuna and chicken vienna pieces in it. I had some and it was ok, not my kind of meal. They did also have some noodles though which were nice.
After lunch we decided to take a dip into the little section of the river close to the bank, it was shielded by trees so the current didnt flow as strongly there.
We were also testing out the rescue line, David would throw the line in the water and then we would take turns grabbing it and having him pull us to the river bank. Uncle Shaheed loved it the most and did it many times. The water was also quite warm, and it was very nice to swim in.
Once we all got out of the water, Uncle Ibrahim suggested we go for a walk, saying he saw a road or jeep-track of sorts close by. So we followed him and it turned out, it was just a dried out river course and not a road. The mountains we saw were very interesting and beautiful. They barely looked like mountains and more like a bunch of rocks put into a pile by a giant. They were all so loose-looking.
There were also many stunning rocks on the ground. Things like quartz and pink granite. It was like a scratch patch the whole way! I took some quartz and pink granite home as they were very pretty.
When we got back to camp we had to move our camp a little further down the river. We got to see the sunset, on the orange river. We calmly paddled along, watching the beautiful colours manifest on the horizon. Purple, yellow, orange.
At this time, the Orange river was absolutely pumping. As we got close to the turnoff into some offshoot of the river, David got the boat close to this tree blocking the way, and told us to paddle hard into the offshoot. The A-team (us) once again handled it with no issue. However, as the other team paddled along, they went for a different approach. You see, they delayed their paddling until they were far from the turn, odd, but they could still make it, but then we saw them desperately paddling and getting nowhere. They were getting washed away by the river.
Their guide, in a panic, deflated the boat a little to slow it down and then safely parked it in some trees. They had to jump over some tall fences (with all their stuff and the boat) to get to us.
Once we were all together we had to move all the things to our new campsite (on the South African side of the Orange river) between a grape farm and a small goat farm.
It wasn’t the best spot (it was actually the worst), but we made do with it. We pitched our tents, had spaghetti bolognese for supper, and then ended it off with a lovely pot of tea courtesy of Uncle Ozzy. As we were sitting around the fire, I got a little tired and wanted to go to bed.
Day 4: Augrabies
On a cold, windy morning, we all woke up. The goats were awake, the birds chirping, the sun shining.
We went over to the Orange river to check how it was flowing, and wow, it was even faster than yesterday. The sheer force of it was mind blowing. I wasn’t sure if we were going to be able to paddle on it that day.
That was when Jacob, our lead guide, decided we won’t be paddling on the river. We would be going to camp by Augrabies. The water was too unsafe to paddle on and the gorges were coming up making it even more dangerous.
They said we would pack up our things, drive back to their base area, and take the cars to Pofadder. Then from there we would leave the Mazda in a safe compound and only take 2 cars to Augrabies. Jacob also said we would be getting lunch at Kakamas, as they would not have time to make lunch.
So we had our breakfast and tea, then we began to pack up our things. The goats from the nearby farm would occasionally come into our camp and check it out.
When the bakkie came to pick us and all our stuff up, we said our goodbyes to David, Johannes, Smiley, Eelias, and Thabo. Only Jacob and Sipho would come with us to Augrabies.
When we got to Pofadder, some of us needed to go to the toilet and get some snacks. After that, we took the long, HOT, UNAIRCONDITIONED DRIVE, which felt like 2 hours, to Kakamas.
We finally reached Kakamas after a very uncomfortable drive and after checking if the local KFC was halaal, we all got some nice fried chicken. Jacob said we could all get R100 for a meal so I got an All-Star box.
It was a very nice meal. After we all finished eating, we noticed Uncle Irfaan had gotten new shoes! No more duct tape nikes.
Then we drove to Augrabies, the drive wasn’t as long and the aircon was on this time, so it wasn’t bad.
When we got to the entrance, we could already see huge clouds of spray, this was because Augrabies is the waterfall of the Orange River. The Mighty Orange River. Augrabies means Place of Great Noise, referring to how huge the waterfall is and how much noise it makes.
When we got to the campsite, it blew our minds. Lush green grass, beautiful trees, a proper toilet and shower block, and flat, clean campsites.
After choosing our site, we set up our tents and went for a walk to see the waterfall. We ended up going to a part away from the usual viewing deck, and were about to climb down to get a closer look. However I saw my dad going to the normal viewing decks so I followed him instead.
I saw the most beautiful thing I have ever seen in my life. I have never seen a waterfall so powerful, magnificent, grand, and large in my life before. It was so big I could feel the spray of it from tens of meters up, soaking my clothes.
There were multiple viewing decks, each better than the last. We went to all of them.
Once the others caught up with us we all sat at the main deck, just looking. We all agreed to come back later for the sunset when we finished taking in the beauty.
When we got back, we saw Sipho and Jacob making the potjie for the night’s supper. My dad and I decided we would go check out the pool and take a dip, then we would shower. So I got my clothes together and we jumped in the pool. It was freezing cold. It made zero sense, it was boiling hot the whole day yet the pool was as cold as ice. I immediately leapt out and dried off.
After my dad got out of the pool I went to go shower. It was absolutely amazing. A warm, clean shower? I haven’t had one in days! That shower was so refreshing after 4 days of not showering at all.
After that we all rushed to the main falls viewing deck to catch the sunset. We got some nice pics and then went back to the campsite to eat supper.
When we got back the food was ready, we all dished some in some plates and dug in. It was pretty good, the veggies were a bit small but I enjoyed it.
Then we all had some tea Uncle Ozzy made and had a yoga session on the grass led by Uncle Shaheed.
Before we went to bed, we decided to get one last view of the falls for the day, the night view. We all strolled to the viewing deck, and wow, it was stunning. The moon was full, and it was so bright that you could see a rainbow at night!
Once we were done enjoying the view, we went back to the campsite and got a nice rest for the next day, on which we would begin our way back home.
Day 5: Highlanders
On the freezing cold and wet morning of Wednesday, I shivered and clenched my teeth as I hobbled around the campsite, and prayed our early morning prayer. Then we rushed to the main viewing deck to see Augrabies Falls for one last time, at sunrise.
We all spread out, going to different spots to see the views from different angles. I stayed on the main platform while most of the others went over the railings to see the falls from elsewhere.
To see the falls under an orange hue, then to see the sun rays arrive, then to see the sun rise.
It was beautiful.
After seeing the sunrise, we all went back to the camp for breakfast. It was cheesy russians, and sausage. Yoh it was the best sausage and russians I have ever had.
When we finished our lovely breakfast, we began to pack our things. We were going to stop at a place called Highlanders on our way back home as the distance is too long to drive in 1 go.
After packing up all our things, we loaded the stuff in the bakkie, ran to the falls for one last look, and ran back to the bakkie. It was really beautiful, and I hope to take my family there one day when I get a job
The drive back made me think about this trip and how it’s coming to an end. I learnt a lot during my time in the Northern Cape and on the Orange River. For example, learning how resource-rich the Northern Cape is, and the drinking problem there, as well as the large date farms from Uncle Israel.
I learnt that no matter what situation you are in, you can fulfill your religious obligations. I got to see how truly diverse South Africa is and how blessed I am to call it my country. I learnt how to paddle on a river raft, and how to paddle effectively as a team.
My time there was amazing, and with all the guides and friends, it was priceless.
Once we arrived at Highlanders, situated in a farming community just before Clan William, we parked the cars under a nice covered parking area. Then, a friendly man named Rowly greeted us, and told us about the arrangements for supper, breakfast, a little bit about the place, and some rules.
He then gave us the keys to our rooms. Actual rooms. With beds. With a bathroom. With BEDDING AND LINEN. It would be the finest sleep on the entire trip.
We all agreed to go on a walk after we were finished unpacking. So once we were all done, we met up at the security gate, and Rowly showed us the code, and we were on our way. We just did a short walk around the perimeter of the farm, and it wasn’t very big.
After arriving back, Uncle Shaheed walked us through another yoga session.
It wasn’t long until supper was ready. We walked into the eating area and were greeted by a very fancy seating arrangement. After sitting down, food was served. It was chicken, some veggies, and rice. A simple but very enjoyable meal. When we finished eating we all agreed to go play some cards at the large bench under the covered area.
We played bergie, once again. This time, however, Uncle Shaheed left for something, presumably on a call. Around that time, the owner, Sparky, came to greet us. He asked us how we found the place. We told him it was stunning, especially considering we were camping before this. We told him about our trip as well.
I asked him if he would like to join us and fill in for our missing player. He was hesitant at first, but I explained the game to him and he agreed to join. As we were playing, he told us a bit about himself. You see, he didn’t inherit the farm; he bought it with his own hard-earned money. He was an electrician before he owned the farm. He told us about the struggles he had in the first few years of owning it, how he made little to no money at first. He started with letting people camp in his front yard, and allowing them to use his kitchen and spare bathroom. Then he built the cottages and excavated on the hill behind his house and expanded.
It was very interesting to hear him talk about his journey to owning Highlanders.
After ordering a cup of hot chocolate and finishing it, we played 1 or 2 more games, then went to bed. Then the next day, we would drive all the way home.
Day 6: The way back
After the best sleep on the entire trip and waking up in a warm bed, I crawled out and put on some warmer clothes. Breakfast would be served soon, so I quickly got ready.
Breakfast was served in the same place as supper. Once again, a beautifully laid table and arrangement. I ordered 2 over-easy eggs, and had some tea.
After breakfast, we all sat at the same long table as the night before, where we played cards with Sparky and had our debrief. We discussed what we most enjoyed on the trip, and how amazing it was to meet everyone.
After agreeing to be ready with all our things at 10, I quickly packed my things and we left it outside. Then, after taking a group photo, we loaded all our things in the bakkie and Mazda, and were off.
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